


\^ 



P'OK FITTING UP AND OPERATING 

HAY : CARRIERS 

AND OTHEK HAVING TOOLS. 




•^ 



The End Hoist. 

oiHMiiical ways Ml iiu^'iri;; a lias ( aiii'i i-' liia^ 
lakni III al till- tMiil tliroiiirli a Hav Door, whii'li 

• iiliifi\ ftill. Tli^ ilialt r<>i ' 

I nf Hii» trark '•**'«• i|ntt«M| 1. 

> till' Wit). UilMl olll llllOil^ll Ulf 

I iilU'v Ilojdcrs.aiul down tliroiiKli 
•veil iiilo lh«» sill of the harii. 
I of draft rope, and llii- liors« can hv 
I and ciin l»e rasily stoppetl nliould th«' fork inisw il.s load 
k. NVIien our llay Door i.s UHt-il ii can be luudu as larjje 
»s d.sir.d and siiil be npcMied or 8liui a» eaiiily and quickly an a forkfull of hay 

Mil 1- ! iki-i, ill 

I i.H loni; each end should lie titted with a hay door, and by 
('. aiid K in the iiiiddic of the barn they will annwer for both 
from Uith t-nds slioiild run within three or four feet of each 

rifter lietw.-.'M tlieui foe the rolInr 1 • ^!lich pulley K 



One id i|„. 1,,.., ,, 
shown in out above. ! 
(wniillH the barn ' 
llie pulley K al tl • 
ln»iiiediat«'Iv iindi I i i 
I'lilitn (', whiiii IS hull 
the piillry II, which I.s h. i.i 

'IM'is pl.TD rt'ijtiiri's til 
wi>r 
or ; 



end;*. I 
other. Ii-.t , 




lieaiii 4h<>iilil 



is attAched 'j 
have a 
K.an.; 

low. All Ihal tM litTce,-».-uH) l«> <ll.ili;;> 

froni one end ti) the oiher. in Iouk-m 
; from «»ne tnick l4» the tither 

I ^'•' tlie pulley K to opjMJ.siU- 

sides of iiie collar beam. 

End and Center Hoist Com- 
bined. 



i ^ 



When not convenient to take the hay 
/ .u at each end, our ('arriern may be tit- 

led to take it up in theyl^nter and also at one end. as shown in FIk. 2. The 



1 i. 



Oos>)rr Islato* i 



.lm%9T~y C3€».f &S80. 



2 — 



track is here arranged to take the load up at A on the outside, and also at Al 
and A2 on the inside. With our latest improved Carrier all that is necessary to 
change from one place to another is to pull on the check cord B or Bl, and raise 
the stop so the Carrier can pass. After the first filling has settled, stops Al 
and A2 can be drawn up and the Carrier run the entire length of the track. 
When rigged in this way the rope must be long enough to run the entire length 
of the barn. 

A Simple Center Hoist. 

Fig. 3 sliows one of the simplest 
and cheapest Center Hoists that can 
be devised for a reversible Carrier. 
It requires only tliree knot pulleys, 
G, E, and F, and two Bracket Pul- 
ley Holders, one at G and one at E. 
The return rope (R) is operated by 
, means of a weight ( W). To rev»^rse 
^ the Carrier, untie the weight and 
Fig. 3. connect the free end of the draft 

rope (D) to the return rope by a swivel rope hook. Now pull on the return rope 
(R) until the ropes have changed ends. Then disconnect the ends of tlie draft 
and return ropes. Change pulley (F) to the opposite end. Attach the weight 
to weight rope and the Hoisting Singletree to the draft rope, and you are ready 
for work. 




Fitting Up Wood Tracks. 

The track should be sized so the carrier will pass over it freely. Special 
directions accompany each carrier in regard to the proper size for the track, and 
how to fit the stops in it. Hard wood is probably the best, i)rovided it is straight, 
but good pine will answer very well, and will be most generally used. When a 
large amount of heavy work is to be done with a wheel carrier, the top of the 
track on each edge where the wheels run should be plated with iron. Strips 
one-eighth or three-sixteenths by inch wide will do. They should b« put on 
with wood screws, having their heads countersunk, and it would be still better 
if the pieces were welded together the length of the track. 









Splicing the Track. 

To splice the track. bevel the ends, 
lap them together and nail the points 
as shown in the cut. Putin two small 
bolts with heads hdow and burrs in 
the middle above so carrier will pass 
them. For three or four inch tracks 
make the bevel 12 to 15 inches long. 
For two-inch track make it 8 inches 
Fig. 4. long and put on an inch piece below 

to strengthen the splice, or if the carrier fits up too closely to the track for the 
inch piece, use a strap or plate of iron with holes punched in it for the bolts. 
The back end of the track should be pointed to facilitate putting on or taking 
off the carrier. Bore an inch hole through the side of a 4x4 track (a smaller 
hole in a smaller track) about four inches from the end, and put in a hard wood 
pin (made a little tapering to drive out easily) to keep the carrier from run- 
ning off. 








1 



— ;■{ — 



Track Hangers. 

When wood clejit Ilaiij^ers iiii- iist'd cut the 
cleats is to 24 indies lon^j from iioint to point for 
4-inc(i rafters(tlie less pileli tlie roof has the hjn- 
ger the cleat slionhl be), and from i22 to H(» inches 
Fro. 5. from point to point for ti-inch rafters. Make the 

cleats HA to 4 inches wide and U to 2 inches thick, tai)ering tlie ends down to 
inch so tliey can 1)6 nailed to the rafters with fencing nails, or they may be 
bolted on if preferred. IJore a 7-1fi hole in center for the hook bolt, and on each 
side <if this a hole an inch deep on the under side of cleat for the point of hook 
bolt to enter, so that tiie hook may be turned to either side necessary. Secure 
the wood cleats (or rafter irons) to every second or third rafter as will be re- 
ijiiireil for strength, ao that these hooks will be in a straight line, commencing 
on the third rafter from the end, and putting in an extra one or two where the 
hav is taken up or to strengthen a splice. Measure froni one hook to another 
with a ligiit pole and lay tdf morti.ses on the track to correspond. 

Make mortises for links (see Fig.H) 8 wide,:LA long on I he upper edge 
of track. 8 to 84 inches def p. and tapered to a point at bottom. Bore 
o-Ui holes for the pins to hold links in place about two inches from 
the top of track, so the pins will drive in ri^/ii and not work out in : i. 

use. Put the links in tr.ick l)efore raising, then hook tliem on to ■ ;.. " 
hooks of hangers and turn ujt the burrs securely. '""' 

On the rafter next to the back end of the track, place a collar Fig. (i. 
beam 8A to 4^ feet long (according to pitch of roof) for pulley (E) (see Fig. on 
1st page.) This pulley should always be located independently of the track and 
.so the rope will rim close to the track but not rub on it. 

The Extension. 

Get a good solid piece of tim- 
ber three to four inches square 
(or round), and four to six feet 
long for the extension piece (A). 
Nail, or both nail and bolt, the 
Extension Supi)ort (H), which we 
furnish, to the end pair of rafters, 
as shown in Fig. 7, setting it well 
Fk.. T. up on the rafters, so the lower 

edge of the Extension Support will be on a Uml vMh the lotoer edge of the track 
hmiger cleats or rafter irons. If necessary it can be let up into the rafters to 
make it come level with the hangers. The cleat (C) is spiked to the end of the 
extension piece, -and is also nailed to the second pair of rafters. The two bolt 
hooks which accompany the Extension Support are set in the extension piece, 
as shown, one at the end and the other between the rafters. 

e®" Always set tlie track hangers up into the comb of the roof as close as 
possible— just so the wheels of the ('arrier will -not strike against the rafters. 
When a sling is used, or extra heavy work is to be done, an extra support for 
the Extension, made of lixfi and 2xS scantling, s or 10 feet long, and put together 
in the form of a board eave trough and bolted on top of the roof, should be used. 

The Pulley Hooks. 

Fig. 8 (next page) shows the right and wrong way to put in Pulley 
Hooks, the ujiper figures being wrong and the lower ones being right. When a 
I'ope is passwl around a pulley the "line of draft" is always half way between 
each line of the rope, as shown by the dotted lines in the cut. The hooks 




■4 — 




Fig. S. 



me put in wrong. 



should always be set as nearly 
straight with the "line of draff" 
as possible, and should be screw- 
ed well into the wood. The way 
to have them break or bend easi- 
ly is to use a long hook, set it at 
right angle with the line of draft, 
and then screw it half way in. 
A small, sl)ort hook set right will 
st;ind more than a 1 ii-ge, lon<; 



Passing the Rope Outside. 




Fig. 9 shows two plans of passing the rope 
through the siding just under the eave. The first 
is the old style of putting a hook into the plate for 
the pulley X, and passing tlie rope through the 
siding below it to a pulley (Y) fastened to a stake 
set in the ground a few feet away from the barn. 
The other shows one of our Bracket Pulley Holders 
for the pulley C, and the pulley B held "by a hook 
screwed into tLie sill of the barn. The latter holds 
the rope better out of the wav than the former. 

The Return of the Carrier. 

There are three ways in which the Carrier can be returned to the load. 1st. 
by pulling on the trip rope, called Hand Return; 2nd, by u.sing ihe return move- 
ment of the horse, called Self Return; and 3d. by the use of counterpoise weights, 
as shown in Fig. 10. When wheel Carriers are used in small or medium-sized 
barns with light ropes, Hand Return is all that is necessary; but in large barns 
with long, heavy ropes, something more is needed for easy work. 

We furnish special directions to purchasers for the use of our Self Return, 
and in order that our patrons may have the choice of all methods, we herewith 
illuS'trate the leading plans of 

\A^eight Returns. 




Fig. 10. 
The ends of the ropes having the arrow points are to be attached to the 
Carrier. Weight No. 1 is rigged with a single rope passing over a return pulley 
(A). When rigged this way the weight will rise and fall the same distance the 
Carrier travels. Weight No. 2 is rigged double draft, the weight rope passing 
over two return pulleys (B and C). It raises and falls only half the distance 
the Carrier travels. Weight No. 3 is rigged triple draft, and raises and falls 
only one-third the distance the Carrier travels. It requires the double pulley 
(D) and rope carrier pulley (E). 



The plan of No. 1 is suitable fur hi^'li, s'lort l)arns; No. 3 for lnii^', low ones: 
and No. 2 for intermediate lenRtlis and heiplitlis. Weight No. 'J should be 
twice as heavy asNo. 1, and weiixht No. :^ three times as heavy, to have the 
same returning power on the carrier. Never use a weiicht heavier than is re- 
(juired to slowly return the carrier, and it will not hurt if it has to be assisted by 
a sliirht i>ull on the trip roi)e. 

Guys for the Weights. 

It .soinetimi-s happens that the weitrht cannot descend perpendicularly. In. 
such cases the simplest plan is t>o use i,'uys to run the weight to the side. No 
4 represents a single draft weight. No. ") a double draft, and No. a triple draft 
weight rigged to run on a guy. Weights rigged in this way will not have 
(piite as much returning power as when they descend perpendicularly. 

The price of the pallets for the difTerent idndsof returns shown in Fig. Id 
an- as follows: No. 1. 25 cents; No. 2, 50 cents; No. H, S1.25; No. 4, o.i cents; 
No. n. Sl.(>i>: and No. H. $1. •">(). 

New Reversible Weight Return. 




Fig. U. 



Fig. 11 shows a new plan of weight return for a reversible carrier, which 
is adapted to a barn having yiily one. or two or more drive-ways. Two half- 
inch or three-eighths ropes (X and XI) long enough to reiujh to the floor, are 
fastened toThe rafters or to the purlin plate near where the pulleys 1 and F are 
hung. The end of one of these ropes is passed through the return pulley at- 
tached to the weight (W), and tied to the end of the return rope (K). As shown 
in cut, the weight is rigged double draft, which will generally be sufficient, but 
when necessary it can be rigged triple draft by making these ropes twice as 
long, passing them over return pulleys at the purlin plates or rafters, and down to 
the pulley at tlie weight, where the end is secured by means of a clevis 

The Carrier is reversed by disconnecting weight rope (XI) and return rope 
(R), then connecting the ends of the return and draft ropes together and pull- 
ing on the return rope until they have changed ends. Then disconnect return 
and draft ropes, pass the end of weight rope (X) through the pulley on the 
weight and tie it to the return rope. A pull on the check rope (B) will raise 
the stop and let the carrier pass. All of this can he done from the barn lloor, 
and the carrier made to work from either side of the stop (A) without any climb- 
ing whatever. This is the most perfect reversible weight return that h;ts been 



invented and we give notice that we shall claim a patent on it. To prevent 
the weight from drawing the draft rope through the Carrier, tie a large- 
knot on the end of weight rope X (or XI) so the weight pulley will stop- 
against it. 



Distributing the Hay. 




Fig. 12. 



Fig. 18. 



In" ordinary barns there is no trouble in getting the ha}' to the sides. AIE 
that is necessary is to keep the middle and back end of the mow full and roll the 
hay down to the sides. Where there is fifteen feet or more over the beams it is 
well to tie a short roi)e, titted with oiie of our adjustable Hope Clamps, between 
the fork and fork pulley, and cany the liay as low as possible. It can then be 
swung aidewise before dropping. 

In wide barns we have founu it a trood plan to dll up the midjjle part hist, 
as shown in Fig 12. Then fix the top of the hay so that the load, in dropping, 
will slide to one of the uiiHlied sides. In very wide bams perhaps the best way 
IS to put in two side tracks (T T.) 

Fig. 18 is a representation of a Ilay Distribnter, by means of whicti the sides 
of the barn can be filled first. It is simply a lij^ht platform of boards suspend- 
ed to the rafters by means of ropes (C C.) It can be easily and quickly reversed 
or raised and lowered or taken out of tiie way. The sling, however, distributes 
the hay much better tlian the fork. 

Fitting the Rope to Louden's Patent Triple Eye. 



Unravel the strands 5 or 6 inches, pass a strand through 
each separate division from right to left and then back under it- 
self, as in Fig. 14. Then weave the strands as in splicing, or tie the 
threads of the strands across to each other if the rope is large 
and the pulley has to work close. In large ropes the ends of the 
strands can be whipped to make them smaller and enter the 
eyes more easily. 



Adjusting the Rope Lock 

Fig. 14. 

The heel of the lock should strike the rope about 
an inch above the center of pulley, and when the 
heel first strikes, the point should stand a full quarter 
inch off. The lock iron can be adjusted to its proper 
position by placing leathers in behind it, eitner at the 
heel or the point or all the way along. 





Fig. 15. 



-7- 
A Good Hav Slide. 




Via. Ki. 
Get ten good stvaiglit-gi'aiiied fericiiiLT huiuds. Hi tVei Imm. hihI a iiiew of 
xcantliug 2x() and S feet long for front piece. Cut two of the hoards in two for 
■cleats. I'nt togetlier as shown in cut, with clinched nails, leaving six inclies 
of space between tlie bottom boards. Tiiis will make tlieslideT^ feet wide arul 
Iti feet long. The boards l)eing close together will ride on the stubble and will 
Iraw easier than wiiere runners are used, as they will cut into tlie ground. 
Some prefer half the number ot boards ami a cleat only at each ei^d, claim- 
ing the slide will run easier wlien the Ix^ards are free to accomiuodate them- 
t^elves to the inequalities of the ground. One wagon sling is suflicient for a 
slide and will take the load at one draft. 

How to Splice a Rope. 




4 
S 



3 s^-' 



First unravel US to l20 inches of 
the ends to be spliced, (or more 
if the ropes are over three-(iuar- 
ter incli diameter) and butt them 
closely together as shown in Fig. 
17, seeing that the strands of one 
end come in spaces between the 
Now unravel stranti No. 4 about 




Fu; 



^ B 
Fkj. 17. 
strands of the other, and only one in a place, 
a foot further back and wrap strand No. 1 (of the other end) in its place as 
shown in Fig, 18. Do likewise with strands No. S and No. .5. taking care tliat 
No. 2 and 6 do not get unravel- 
ed and out of shape. 

[Note.— A new beginner 
iniglit do well to tie No. 2 and »> 
in their place with a small cord 
before working No. 1 and 4. or 
No. 8 and .5. The corresponding 
strands of each end (No. 1 and 4. 
*J and <i, and .S and -j) will now come together in three separate placps about a foot 
apart instead of coming together all at one place, as shown in Fig. 18, and the 
weaving of them together (if none of the threads are cut out) can make the rope 
only one-fourtk larger instead of ticice as large had they been all spliced at one 
place as they are shown in Fig. 17. This separating of the strands so they can 
be spliced in three separate places is the main secret in splicing a rope so it will 
run through the pulleys.] 

To proceed with the splicing, pass strand No. 1 over and across No. 4 and 
then under the strand next to it. Now do the same thing with No. 5 and S, and 
*'■> and 2, taking care to draw all the ends so they have an even tension. All that 
remains to complete the job is to work all the ends over and under each alter- 
nate strand as far as desired, always crossing ttie strand from right to left. Af- 
ter tucking in the first three ends to start the splice, it is well to untwist and 
tlatten the ends to make the splice smooth, and a few of the threads may be cut 
out to keep from enlarging the rope. 



Hints on the Use and Care of Ropes. 

It is H good plan to stretch a rope by tying one end to a post and hitoliing a 
horse to the other and pullinsr on it before putting in tlie pulleys. This evens up 
the tension of the strands and helps to take out kinks. To limber up a new 
rope hitch a horse to one end and drag it over a dry, clean grass lot a few min- 
utes. 13oiliiig may be resorted to when the rope is very stiff. It sometimes 
helps a kinky rope to take it out and turn it end for end. The twist always runs 
to the back ecd of the rope, hence the importance of having a free working 
swivel at this end to let out the twist. 

Never get a rope larger than necessary for the work required. A heavy rope 
is heavy to handle, and unless the pulleys are large in proportion it will not wear 
as long, or at least no longer, tha.i a lighter one. Be sure that the rupe does 
not rub on any sharp corners. We do not recommend dipping ropes in linseed 
oil that have to be run tluough pulleys. It makes them too stifE when the oil 
gets dry. However, a very little oil or tallow on an old dry rope helps to make it 
pliable and prevents the strands from wearing each otiier in passing the pulleys. 

Be careful not to hang or lay rope away in a damp place, or where water will 
drop on it and keep it wet. This will make it rotten. 

In taking rope out of the coil always draw from the center, and if it kinks in 
drawing out at one end of the coil pass the rope through the middle and draw 
from the other end. 

To get the exact size of a rope take a square-jawed monkey wrench and set 
it so it will just slip over the rope. Then measure the distance the jaws are 
apart. 

Sundry Cautions. 

i^Never stand direc^^y under the fork, nor the r-eturn weight when one is 
used. It is an unsafe position. 

Passing the trip rope through a small pulley located overhead will help to 
keep a heavy fork from coming d©wn too fast. 

Don't pull very hard on the trip cord v;hen standing on the edge of a load. 
If it should break you m ould be liable to turn a somersault to the ground. 

l^°Don't let the children play with the ropes or pulleys. It is the easiest 
thing imaginable to get their hands drawn into the pulleys and crippled for 
life. 

If you have never used a hay carrier or fork, remember that it may require a 
little time and experience to get everything to working right. With nearly ail 
kinds of machinery one-half is in the operator, and he cannot expect to work to 
the best advantage until he becomes well acquainted with his machine. 

For any additional directions, address— 

LOUDEN MACHINERY CO., 

fairfie:l.d, iowa. 

library of congress 



002 758 644 2 



iiiifil 



